If there was a word that defined the day today, it was HILLS. I mean, not just a few hills, but my step counter said I merely went up 23 floors. I think that was a low estimate. But what wonderful things you can see when you make that uphill trek.
I started the day taking the train to Sintra. Easy train ride, with a great view of the intriguing Roman aqueduct along the way (particularly from the Campolide station). When I arrived in Sintra, I had a bit of a double take when Google maps said it would take an hour and twenty minutes to walk to Pena Palace. I knew that was the one I wanted to see most... but it was the National Palace that was the reasonable, level, short walk from the train station. Darn! I took the tour bus to get to the Pena Palace entrance, where I then had a very steep walk up to the palace. Glad I went now and not in 5 years, as my metal knees aren't getting any younger.
Pena Palace is spectacular. It's a very colorful combination of a monastery and residence at the tiptop of Sintra.
Although the site of the monastery dates back to 1493, the 1755 earthquake reduced it to rubble and it wasn't rebuilt until the 1800s by King Ferdinand. Susbequent rulers added their stamp on the palace until 1910, when it was converted to a national museum. I noted a few decorating ideas for my own residence from looking at the rooms in the palace, which had moorish designs, trompe l'oeil painting on walls and ceilings, Chinese porcelain and some very ornate carved furniture.
After touring the palace, I took a seat on the terrace where you could sit drinking hot chocolate or having snacks and did a little painting. Today's admiring couple did not make any offer on the work, alas, but I didn't really finish the painting before I decided it was time to go.
The hike back down along the "valley of the lakes" was (this is no surprise) very steep and woodsy and peaceful.
I made it back to Sintra train station and headed back to Lisbon (I may go back another day to see more of the town if I have time... or maybe that will be the next trip).
After lunch near my hotel, I was curious about finding the elevators on Rua Victoria that went up to the Castel St. George. Now, I wasn't really that interested in the castle, in part because I'd been told that when it was rebuilt (earthquake!), there was some inaccuracy built in. And I'd seen a few castles on this trip. What I really was curious about was the view and about how easy it would be to get up there (note earlier trek up to Pena Palace). The elevators (which are free) aren't unmarked exactly, but they are inside buildings and you do have to know that's where you are headed.
Miradouros are high up view terraces/restaurants/sites that attract a big following, especially at sunset. At 4 pm, there were plenty of people already at the Saint Luzia Miradouro, which I got to by taking those elevators and walking around the castle walls. The terraces themselves were pretty beautiful, although not so photogenic with many people on them. And what a view of Lisbon and the Tagus River! Gorgeous and inspiring.
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