Gulbenkian Museum

 

It was gray and a little cool this morning, and I'd read about the collection of Lalique jewelry at the Gulbenkian Collection which I wanted to see.  An easy subway ride away, the Collection's buildings are in park-like grounds.  You'd think it would be easy to find the entrance, but after I walked a long way around and then later observed several people who couldn't find the entrance and were asking for help, I'll just say they need to improve their signage (since my younger daughter doesn't read this blog, also note: many years ago when we were looking at colleges, she refused to consider any school that didn't have good signage).  

Claude Monet, Boats

I resist going to museums in cities where what you see, you could see in any city, but I have to say the collection here was unique and interesting and reflected the very personal interests of the museum's patron, Calouste Sarkis Gulbenkian.  They do allow photos without a flash, so I can share a bit of what I saw. 

this is a silver 18th century mustard server, which would beat putting a yellow squeeze bottle on the table

Turkish 16th century tiles of cherry trees in moonlight

John Singer Sargent, Lady & Child Asleep in a Punt Under the Willows

Pascal-Adolphe-Jean Dagnan Bouveret, Au Bretonnes du Pardon

I just love the expressions on the Bretonnes in that painting.  

Gulbenkian had a 54 year friendship with Rene Lalique and collected over 200 gorgeous pieces of jewelry and glass.   There are many dragonfly designs, pendants, brooches and many examples of combs (clearly anticipating my love of dragonflies and the ever-present combs I have been wearing in my hair for a very long time).  They are all exquisite and it was a treat to see them.  

I do have a couple of "old lady" thoughts about this museum.  I am very appreciative of the person who decided to put wood floors in, as they are so much more comfortable than marble or concrete for walking through a museum.  I am sorry that, for conservation reasons, the collection, especially the rugs in the Islamic East gallery, is in very low lighting.  It's hard to see in those galleries, especially when you are looking at something displayed on the floor.  And I can't understand why any art labels, especially in those low lit galleries, are sometimes on the wall at the level of my ankles.  

They have a very nice cafe and I sat outside drinking pricey water for a bit, noting the difference between sitting on the museum cafe patio and sitting out in a grand plaza in the city.  Lisbon is no different than any other large city anywhere in the world, with some people who hope to make money from tourists by selling or begging or picking pockets.  I didn't ever feel unsafe and I didn't have any bad experiences, but I was certainly treated to some accordion playing and offers of sunglasses for sale and pleas for assistance while I was in a more public space than I was in a museum cafe.  The city was not particularly crowded, as February is not high tourist season (and covid is probably a factor too) although the streets filled with more and more people later in the day.  Everyone had on masks everywhere I went, that was very reassuring too.

I went from the Gulbenkian Museum to a cafe in a public park, spend a long time reading and drinking sangria and having quiche with salad to while away my last afternoon in Lisbon.

Off to Porto tomorrow for some days and Evora after that.